You know you need an oil change, but what type of oil should you actually be using? For new car owners or anyone buying oil themselves for the first time, it’s easy to assume all motor oil is the same. In reality, oil isn’t one-size-fits-all. The best oil for your vehicle depends on its make and model, how you drive, and even the weather where you live. Choosing the right oil is one of the simplest but most important things you can do to keep your engine healthy. This guide will walk you through how to find the correct oil and why it matters, with a look at why Huff Oil Group recommends AMSOIL full synthetic motor oils for superior protection. Where to Find Your Vehicle’s Oil Recommendation The good news? You don’t have to guess. Your manufacturer already has the answer! Start with your owner’s manual. It will tell you the recommended oil viscosity (like 5W-30) and whether your vehicle requires conventional or synthetic oil. If the manual isn’t available, check the oil cap under your hood. Many vehicles have the correct weight printed right on top. You can also use your manufacturer’s website or oil lookup tools. For an easier option, AMSOIL offers a free online product lookup tool that shows you exactly which oil products fit your make and model. Factors That Affect Which Oil You Should Use Even with a manufacturer recommendation, there are a few other factors that might affect your oil choice: Vehicle age and mileage: Older engines or those with high mileage might benefit from oils designed to reduce wear and leaks. Driving habits: If you mainly drive short distances, haul trailers, or do lots of highway miles, your engine experiences different stress levels that affect oil performance. Climate and weather: Colder areas may need oil that flows more easily at low temps, while hot climates demand oil that withstands heat. Warranty requirements: Some modern engines require full synthetic oil to maintain warranty coverage. Oil Types at a Glance There are four common types of oil you’ll find on the shelf: Conventional oil: The standard option, best for older or low-mileage engines. Synthetic oil: Engineered for better performance, protection, and longevity. Synthetic blends: A mix of conventional and synthetic. Offers better performance than conventional oil at a lower price point. High-mileage oil: Formulated with additives to help protect aging engines. If you’re aiming for reliability, longevity, and superior engine protection, full synthetic is the way to go. AMSOIL was the first synthetic motor oil to meet API service requirements and continues to lead the industry in performance. What Can Go Wrong If You Use the Wrong Oil? Choosing the wrong oil doesn’t always result in instant damage, but over time, it can cause real problems: Increased engine wear from poor lubrication Poor fuel economy and sluggish performance, especially in extreme temperatures Potential warranty issues if the oil doesn’t meet manufacturer specs The fix? Stick with oil that meets or exceeds your car’s recommendations. Quality synthetic oil protects your engine better, especially under stress. Wrap-Up: Make the Right Choice When in doubt, check your car’s oil requirements and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Huff Oil Group is here to help you keep your car running at its best. If you're looking for maximum performance and long-lasting protection, we highly recommend AMSOIL’s full synthetic motor oils . They’re ideal for anyone who wants to extend engine life, improve efficiency, or drive in extreme conditions. Have questions about which oil is right for your vehicle? Request a call back , and our team will walk you through the best option for your needs.

You check your dipstick and notice the oil level has dropped significantly since your last change. Or maybe you've spotted blue smoke puffing from your exhaust pipe. Either way, you're asking the same question: why is my car burning through oil so quickly? Oil consumption is a normal part of engine operation, but when it accelerates beyond typical levels, it's time to investigate. Let's walk through the most common culprits behind excessive oil burn-off, from simple fixes to more serious engine issues. Normal vs. Excessive Oil Consumption First, let's establish a baseline. Most engines consume some oil during normal operation, typically between one quart every 1,000 to 3,000 miles, depending on the vehicle's age and design. High-performance engines and older vehicles often consume more oil than newer, lower-performance engines. However, if you're adding oil every few hundred miles or noticing a dramatic drop in oil levels between changes, your engine is burning oil faster than it should. Common Causes of Rapid Oil Consumption Driving Habits and Conditions Your driving style plays a significant role in oil consumption. Aggressive driving, frequent stop-and-go traffic, and extended high-RPM operation all increase oil burn-off. Highway driving at consistent speeds typically results in lower oil consumption than city driving with constant acceleration and deceleration. Extreme temperatures also affect oil consumption. In hot weather, oil becomes thinner and more prone to evaporation, while cold weather can cause seals to contract, potentially allowing oil to escape. Minor Leaks and Seals Small external leaks might not leave obvious puddles under your car but can still contribute to oil loss. Common leak points include: Oil pan gasket Valve cover gasket Oil filter housing Drain plug seal These leaks often start small and worsen over time. A quick visual inspection of your engine bay and the ground where you park can help identify external leaks. Worn Piston Rings This is where we enter more serious territory. Piston rings create a seal between the piston and cylinder wall, preventing oil from entering the combustion chamber. When these rings wear down, oil can slip past and burn during combustion, creating that telltale blue smoke from the exhaust. Worn piston rings often develop gradually in high-mileage vehicles, but they can also result from poor maintenance, overheating, or using low-quality oil that doesn't provide adequate protection. Valve Seal Problems Valve seals prevent oil from leaking down the valve stems into the combustion chamber. When these seals deteriorate, oil can seep past and burn, especially noticeable when starting the engine after it's been sitting for a while. You might see a puff of blue smoke upon startup that clears after the engine warms up. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System Issues The PCV system recirculates crankcase vapors back into the engine for combustion. When this system malfunctions, it can create excessive pressure in the crankcase, forcing oil past seals and gaskets. A faulty PCV valve is relatively inexpensive to replace and can significantly reduce oil consumption. Turbocharger Problems If your vehicle has a turbocharger, worn turbo seals can allow oil to enter the intake or exhaust system. This often presents as blue smoke from the exhaust, particularly under acceleration. The Oil Quality Factor Here's something many drivers overlook: the quality of your motor oil directly impacts consumption rates. Low-quality conventional oils break down more quickly under heat and stress, leading to increased volatility and burn-off. Conventional oils contain more volatile compounds that evaporate at high temperatures, essentially disappearing from your engine. Additionally, as conventional oil degrades, it loses its protective properties, potentially accelerating wear on critical engine components like piston rings and valve seals. Full synthetic motor oils, particularly high-quality formulations like AMSOIL, are engineered with superior base stocks and additive packages that resist volatility and thermal breakdown. This means they maintain their protective properties longer and burn off at significantly lower rates than conventional oils. For older or high-mileage vehicles, this difference becomes even more pronounced. AMSOIL's full synthetic motor oils provide better seal conditioning, helping to restore flexibility to aged seals while offering superior protection against wear that could worsen oil consumption issues. When to See a Mechanic While some oil consumption causes are relatively minor, others require professional diagnosis and repair. Consider visiting a mechanic if you notice: Blue smoke from the exhaust consistently Oil consumption exceeding one quart every 1,000 miles White smoke that could indicate coolant mixing with oil Unusual engine noises accompanying oil loss Sudden, dramatic increases in oil consumption A compression test, leak-down test, or other diagnostic procedures can help pinpoint the exact cause of excessive oil consumption. Prevention and Solutions The best defense against rapid oil consumption is proactive maintenance. Choose Quality Oil: Upgrading to a high-quality full synthetic oil can immediately reduce consumption in many vehicles. The superior thermal stability and lower volatility of premium synthetics mean more oil stays in your engine where it belongs. Regular Oil Changes: Don't extend oil change intervals beyond manufacturer recommendations, especially if you're already dealing with consumption issues. Monitor Oil Levels: Check your oil at least monthly, or more frequently if you know your vehicle consumes oil. Catching low levels early prevents damage that could worsen consumption. Address Issues Promptly: Fix minor leaks and replace worn components before they lead to more serious problems. Making the Switch If you're tired of constantly topping off your oil or want to give your engine the best protection possible, consider switching to AMSOIL full synthetic motor oil. Its advanced formulation is specifically designed to resist burn-off while providing superior engine protection, particularly beneficial for older or high-mileage vehicles prone to oil consumption. The difference in oil consumption between conventional and high-quality synthetic oil can be dramatic, often paying for the upgrade cost through reduced oil purchases alone. Take Action Don't let excessive oil consumption damage your engine or drain your wallet. Start by monitoring your oil levels more closely and consider the factors we've discussed. Whether it's adjusting your driving habits, fixing minor leaks, or upgrading to a better oil, taking action now can save you from costly repairs down the road. Ready to explore high-quality oil options for your vehicle? Check out our gasoline oil products or learn more about choosing the right viscosity for your specific needs. For personalized recommendations based on your vehicle and driving conditions, request a callback from our team or browse our complete product information to find the right solution for your engine. Your engine works hard for you. Give it the protection it deserves.

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Every rider wants their motorcycle to deliver the same thrill and performance ride after ride, time after time. Unfortunately, eventually every bike starts to feel a bit sluggish or not as responsive as it once was. Often, the culprits of these slowdowns aren’t major mechanical failures, but smaller maintenance issues that get overlooked. Below, we’ll explore five hidden reasons your motorcycle’s performance may be declining, along with real-world tips to diagnose and fix each issue. Keeping on top of these will help ensure your bike runs smoothly every time you go out to ride. 1. Dirty or Clogged Air Filter A motorcycle’s engine needs a steady flow of clean air for efficient combustion. If your air filter is clogged with dust, dirt, or pollen, it chokes the engine by restricting airflow. The result is a richer fuel mixture (too much fuel, not enough air) that causes incomplete combustion. You’ll likely experience symptoms such as loss of power, sluggish acceleration, poor fuel economy, or rough idling when the filter is dirty. Inspect your air filter regularly, especially if you often ride in dusty or dirty conditions. Most motorcycles make this easy, the filter is usually accessible under the seat or tank. If the filter looks visibly dirty (paper filters will appear dark and dusty, foam filters caked with debris), it’s time to clean or replace it. As a rule of thumb, many riders clean or change their air filter about 1-2 times per year, but always follow your bike manufacturer’s recommendations. 2. Worn or Fouled Spark Plugs Spark plugs might be small, but they play a colossal role in engine performance. These plugs ignite the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder, and if they’re worn out or fouled (covered in carbon, oil, or fuel deposits), the ignition spark weakens or misfires. A bad plug can lead to incomplete combustion in one or more cylinders, resulting in a noticeable drop in power and acceleration. In fact, a worn-out spark plug can cause sluggish throttle response, reduced power output, rough idling, and even misfires. To check your spark plugs, remove them using the proper socket (ensure the engine is cool first). Examine the electrodes: a healthy plug will have a light brown or grayish tan deposit. If you see heavy black carbon fouling (dry soot) or oily deposits, that plug isn’t firing optimally. Also, check the plug gap and tip wear; an excessively wide gap or eroded tip can weaken the spark. Cleaning fouled plugs can be a temporary fix (using a wire brush or spark plug cleaner), but the best solution is to replace them. Spark plugs are relatively inexpensive, and new plugs can make a dramatic difference in engine smoothness and power. Riders with high-performance bikes or who frequently ride hard should consider inspecting plugs more often (every few thousand miles). When installing new plugs, always use the correct type and gap specified by the manufacturer. 3. Improper Chain Tension or Maintenance The final drive chain is the crucial link between your engine and the rear wheel – if it’s not in good shape, your bike’s performance (and safety) can suffer. An improperly tensioned chain (either too loose or too tight) can subtly rob power and make your motorcycle feel less responsive. A loose chain will slap around, causing jerky acceleration and even momentary power loss as it takes up slack. In worst cases, it could jump off the sprocket, which is dangerous and can damage the engine casings. On the other hand, a chain that’s over-tightened causes excess friction and stress on the drivetrain; this not only saps engine power but can also impede your rear suspension’s movement and accelerate wear on sprocket bearings. Additionally, a dry or rusty chain that hasn’t been lubricated creates extra drag. The engine works harder to turn it, which can make acceleration feel labored. Signs & Solutions You should check your chain slack periodically (many riders do this every few fuel refills or every couple of weeks). Find the manufacturer’s recommended chain slack (often listed on a sticker on the swingarm or in the owner’s manual). With the bike on a stand or held upright, spin the rear wheel and find the chain’s tightest point; press up on the chain mid-way between the sprockets – it should have the specified amount of vertical movement (typically around 0.75–1.25 inches, or 20–30 mm, but varies by bike). If it’s outside that range, an adjustment is needed. Use the adjusters on the swingarm to achieve proper tension, making small, even tweaks on each side and re-checking slack. While adjusting, also inspect and lubricate the chain. A well-lubed chain not only lasts longer but also runs quieter and more efficiently. 4. Outdated or Low-Quality Engine Oil Engine oil isn’t just a “lubricant” in your motorcycle, it’s also responsible for cooling, sealing, and cleaning internal components. If you’ve been running on old, broken-down oil, your engine’s performance can decline over time. Worn-out oil loses viscosity and its ability to reduce friction. This means more metal-on-metal contact inside the engine, which can make your bike feel sluggish and hotter than normal due to increased friction. Moreover, oil that’s past its prime can form sludge and deposits in the engine. These harmful deposits coat parts and narrow oil passages, impeding performance. In fact, as engine deposits build up, they can “lead to loss of performance” by preventing the efficient operation of moving parts. You might notice slower revving, reduced peak power, or noisier engine operation when the oil is overdue for a change. Check your oil level and condition via the dipstick or sight glass. Healthy oil is typically golden or light brown (for fresh oil); as it ages, it turns dark brown or black and may smell burnt. If your oil is very dark, gritty, or over a year old, it’s likely hurting performance. The fix is straightforward: change the oil and oil filter. Always use the oil grade recommended by your manufacturer (e.g., 10W-40, 20W-50, etc.), and opt for a high-quality oil (premium synthetic oils tend to maintain their protective qualities longer under hard use), such as AMSOIL . 5. Old or Moisture-Contaminated Brake Fluid While brake fluid might not seem related to “engine performance,” it dramatically affects your riding performance, you can’t go fast if you can’t stop confidently. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the air over time. As the fluid ages or picks up moisture, two things happen: First, its boiling point drops. Under hard braking (say, coming down a mountain or braking repeatedly on a track day), the brakes generate intense heat. Fresh brake fluid can handle this heat, but stale, wet fluid may boil in the brake lines, turning into compressible gas. This leads to a spongy brake lever and a severe loss of braking power (a condition known as brake fade). In a panic stop, this could mean the difference between a quick stop and overshooting your mark. Second, moisture causes corrosion inside the brake system. Water in the fluid can rust the master cylinder, calipers, and brake lines from within, or gunk them up with sediments. This not only harms expensive components but can also make the brake action inconsistent. Diagnosis & Fix Inspect the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir (usually a small transparent or translucent container near your handlebars for the front brake, and near the foot pedal for the rear). Look at the fluid color, new brake fluid is clear or light amber. If yours is murky brown or almost black, it’s well past time to change it. Another sign is if your brake lever or pedal feels soft or “sinks” when held, that could indicate moisture-induced fade or air bubbles from boiling. The cure is to flush and bleed the brake system with fresh fluid. Brake fluid should typically be replaced every 2 years (or as specified in your manual), regardless of mileage, because it naturally absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. This is a bit more involved than an oil change, because you need to bleed the brakes to remove all air. If you’re mechanically inclined, you can do it with a clear tube and wrench (always use the correct DOT rating fluid). Otherwise, a shop can perform a brake service for you. Once replaced, you’ll immediately notice a firmer, more responsive brake feel. Keeping fresh, moisture-free brake fluid in your bike ensures you have consistent stopping power, an often overlooked aspect of overall performance confidence. Enjoy Your Ride Don’t let these “hidden” issues sap the joy from your riding. A motorcycle that isn’t performing like it used to may just be crying out for a bit of TLC in these areas. By regularly checking and maintaining your air filter, spark plugs, chain, engine oil, brake fluid, and fuel system, you’ll ensure your bike stays in top form. The devil is in the details with performance: a $10 filter or a simple fluid change can often make as much difference as expensive performance upgrades. Not to mention, picking the correct synthetic motorcycle oil, such as AMSOIL . Stay proactive with maintenance, and both you and your motorcycle will continue to enjoy the performance you remember.

Picking the right motorcycle goggles can make or break your ride. Whether you're hitting the motocross track, exploring trails, or cruising the streets, your goggles need to match how and where you ride. The wrong pair will leave you squinting, fogging up, or constantly adjusting your gear when you should be focused on the road ahead. Know Your Riding Style Different types of riding throw different challenges at you. Motocross riders deal with flying dirt, mud, and light that changes by the second. Dual-sport riders need gear that works everywhere – from dusty trails to sudden rainstorms. Street riders want clear vision through traffic and comfort for those longer rides. Instead of grabbing whatever looks cool, think about what you actually need for your type of riding. Motocross Motorcycle Goggles: Tough and Ready When you're racing or riding hard off-road, your motorcycle goggles take a beating. You need features that keep working when things get rough. Tear-offs are huge here – being able to rip away a muddy layer and instantly see clearly again can save your ride (and maybe your skin). You also want goggles that give you a wide view so you can see other riders and track obstacles. A secure fit is non-negotiable because the last thing you need is your goggles shifting around mid-jump. Anti-fog is critical when you're working hard on the bike. Your body heat and sweat can fog up cheap goggles in seconds. Look for dual-pane lenses or good anti-fog coatings that actually work under pressure. The frame should be able to flex when you crash (because let's be honest, it happens). Rigid goggles that don't give can hurt your face on impact. Good motocross motorcycle goggles bend instead of breaking you. Dual-Sport Motorcycle Goggles: Built for Everything Dual-sport riding is unpredictable. You start on pavement, hit some gravel, maybe end up on single track – all in one ride. Your motorcycle goggles need to handle whatever comes up without making you stop every few miles to swap gear. Quick-change lenses are perfect for this. Pop out a clear lens when it gets cloudy, swap in tinted ones when the sun comes out. The best systems let you do this fast, even with gloves on. Good airflow control helps too. You want ventilation when you're crawling through technical sections, but wind protection when you're doing highway speeds. Adjustable vents give you options based on what you're riding through. Street Motorcycle Goggles: Comfort for the Long Haul Street riding often means longer distances and dealing with all kinds of lighting – bright highways, shaded city streets, tunnel exits that blind you. Your motorcycle goggles need to keep you comfortable and seeing clearly through all of it. Photochromic lenses (the ones that adjust automatically) are great for street riders. They get darker in bright light and lighter in shade without you having to do anything. No more carrying extra lenses or pulling over to make changes. Since you might be wearing them for hours, comfort matters more than in other types of riding. Look for good padding that stays comfortable and straps that don't create pressure points. Anti-slip straps keep everything in place without getting tight. What Every Rider Needs No matter what you ride, some features help everyone. UV protection isn't optional – eye damage from the sun builds up over time, and you can't undo it. Make sure any motorcycle goggles you buy block 100% of UV rays. Scratch-resistant coatings keep your lenses clear longer. Even small scratches can create glare or mess with your vision, which is dangerous when you're moving fast. Impact resistance goes beyond basic eye protection. Your goggles should meet ANSI Z87.1 standards at minimum. This means they can handle debris hitting them at speed without breaking. The Twisted Turtle TTP71B: One Goggle, Multiple Uses Twisted Turtle motorcycle goggles are built for riders who want high-end features without the high-end price tag. The TTP71B proves you don't have to spend a fortune to get goggles that actually work well in different situations. The quick-change lens system makes swapping lenses simple. No tools needed, works with gloves on, and takes just seconds. Clear lenses for overcast days, tinted for bright sun, mirror lenses when you need maximum glare protection. The anti-slip strap uses silicone backing to grip your helmet without sliding around. It adjusts to fit different helmets and head shapes without creating hot spots or pressure points that make longer rides uncomfortable. For off-road riders, the TTP71B works with standard tear-offs. When mud or dust hits your lens, just grab the tab and rip it away for instant clear vision. No stopping, no cleaning, just keep riding. Making the Right Choice Think about where you ride most often, but don't ignore versatility if you like mixing things up. Goggles that adapt to different conditions often give you better value than ones that only work well in specific situations. Price matters, but think long-term. Features like quick-change lenses, good anti-fog systems, and tough construction can save you money over time by lasting longer and working better. Fit is everything. The most expensive motorcycle goggles in the world won't help if they don't fit your face and helmet right. Try them on with your actual riding helmet if possible to make sure they seal properly and feel comfortable. The Bottom Line on Value So, are the Twisted Turtle TTP71B motorcycle goggles the best under $100? For most riders, the answer is a confident yes. They deliver the comfort, clarity, and durability of goggles twice their price, without cutting corners on features that matter. If you want premium features like a quick-change mirror lens, anti-slip strap, and real off-road readiness (tear-offs and all), the TTP71B from Twisted Turtle is one of the smartest gear upgrades you can make this season. The right motorcycle goggles make every ride better while protecting your eyes. Whether you're racing motocross, exploring new trails, or commuting to work, good goggles that match your riding style are worth every penny. Your eyes will thank you, and you'll wonder why you waited so long to upgrade. Ready to get your hands on a pair of Twisted Turtle motorcycle glasses? Contact us , and we’ll get you set up.

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